TYPES OF TECHNOLOGIES USED IN THE GARMENT INDUSTRY BY Leigh Hayden
Pre-production
CAD (computer-assisted design) software package for design, pattern-making, and marker-making. These software packages can be used in a few different ways. A base pattern can be made out of cardboard (“the old fashioned way”) and then placed on a digitizing table and its coordinates traced out to obtain a digital image of each pattern piece. Alternatively, instead of making the base pattern by hand, a new pattern can be made by electronically manipulating an already digitized pattern. In this way, developing new but not radically different styles and patterns can be done with relative ease. Sizing rules tell the computer how the dimensions of people grow. These sizing rules are not standard; they vary somewhat between companies and significantly between countries. With these rules, the computer can “grade” the pattern and enlarge or shrink the base pattern to obtain the pattern pieces for other sizes. Grading was traditionally done by hand and is a slow and difficult process. Once a pattern has been graded into all of the required sizes for a particular production run, a marker is developed with the aid of the computer to maximize fabric utilization. A marker is a map of how the different pattern pieces are laid out on the fabric. According to some sources, fabric is usually about 30% of the cost of the garment, so fabric waste minimization is essential to keep costs down. Marker development can be done manually, although it can take several hours and fabric utilization is usually not as efficient as it is when the computer is used. When the marker is completed it is usually printed out on a larger plotter and then delivered to the cutting floor. Most facilities we visited used Gerber technology for design, pattern making and grading, and marker making. The benefits of CAD technology are efficiency and accuracy. With CAD technology, businesses can develop products faster. In addition, since grading and marking is automated, the patterns are more accurate and the percentage of material usage is higher. CAD technology was first used in the garment industry in the 1980s.9 It has improved significantly in terms of functionality and user friendliness in the last five to ten years.
Another development in pre-production technology is 3-D body scanning. There are several different models of the 3-D body scanner, but they all do essentially the same thing—they automate measuring body dimensions. Automating this process does two things—it increases the accuracy of measurement (it is difficult to obtain accurate body measurements manually because of human variation and error),11 and it unobtrusively and quickly measures a vast number of body dimensions. Body scanning equipment, referred to as “booths”, ranges in price from USD
$25,000-$225,000. Some believe that in the near future it will be common for people to go to body scanning boutiques to have their measurements taken, receive an electronic copy of their measurements, and then download this information to a virtual store to purchase custom-made clothing online. Body scanning technology is the perfect complement for electronic clothing boutiques. An individual can use his or her data to either order custom-made clothes online or determine whether a particular ready-made style fits their own body properly. It is estimated that 38%-40% of all clothing purchased online is returned. Garment industry analysts project that body scanning technology will significantly decrease the return rate and increase profits of online stores.
Production
Spreading/Cutting
The first stage of production is cutting. Fabric is laid out on spreader tables in layers of 1 to 100, depending on the type of fabric and the size of the production run. A paper marker is placed on top of the fabric. Each pattern piece on the marker is identified with a code indicating the style of garment, size, colour, and type of piece. Smaller facilities with short production runs or custom-made orders do pattern cutting either with scissors or an electric hand-held fabric cutter. Some large volume facilities have invested in automated spreaders and cutters. At the plant, automated spreaders have been installed. Where ten people used to be employed to spread and cut fabric, in this plant it only requires two people, one to operate each machine. In the spreading area, fabric isbspread out into several layers on one end of a very long table. At the plant, air is blown up from the bottom of the spreader table so the fabric can be slid down the table to the cutting area once the fabric spreading is complete. In the cutting area, the table is equipped with a vacuum to keep the many layers of fabric in place. Although a paper marker is laid over the fabric, the electronic cutter does not follow the lines of the marker. The marker is used for labelling the pattern pieces. The marker is downloaded into the automated cutter. The operator starts the cutter and it quickly and accurately cuts the fabric. Once the cutting step is complete (whether the cutting is done by hand or with an automated cutter) the fabric pieces are bundled, labelled and sent to the sewing area.
United Production System (UPS)
A UPS is an overhead track where garment pieces are moved from one sewing step to another, in sequence, until the garment is complete. It was developed in the 1970s to help streamline the production process. It can save time and can improve efficiency by bringing the work to the sewing machine operator (SMO). The plant that we visited with the UPS system makes only one type of garment. The UPS system is ideal for this type of production because the production steps do not change. For facilities that make a variety of different garments in a variety of different styles. UPS set-up must be flexible because the order and number of sewing steps changes with each type of garment.
Modular Sewing
In modular sewing, a team of usually four SMOs (sewing machine operators) work together to complete a garment from start to finish. Each team member may be responsible for two or three steps in the construction. This type of work usually requires highly skilled and experienced sewing machine operators. They must be trained on a variety of machines and understand a multitude of different operations. a modular team system has been implemented to reduce in-progress inventory and speed up order filling so that rush orders can be shipped to the customer within 48 hours. This system also allows the firm to monitor the performance of each team and base bonuses on the number of garments produced above quota for each team. Bonuses are team-based rather than based on individual performance. If a team member is not performing to standard, the rest of the team pressures that person to increase their output.Thus, peer pressure as well as bonus incentives encourage SMOs to work harder and faster.
Stand-up Sewing Machines
There is some debate as to whether stand-up sewing machines are desirable.
The workers initially rejected the stand-up machines and many walked out. Given time, we were told, the sewing machine operators who remained on began to prefer them to the sit-down machines, and some SMOs who quit heard that it was a positive change and asked for their jobs back. Stand-up machines are in theory less fatiguing because they offer more mobility. While operating a stand-up machine, the operator stands on a micro-sensor pad to reduce fatigue and controls the machine using light-touch foot pedals. We were told that sitting down and bending over a machine all day is much more fatiguing and ergonomically taxing than standing at a machine. Thus, it is said that workers have accepted stand-up machines because they find the work less fatiguing and they also achieve higher efficiency, which means more bonuses and higher pay. Others facilities have not embraced the stand-up machines.
Other Sewing Machine Technology
Other sewing machine technology, such as thread cutters and machines that automatically place the sewing needle in the down position once the machine is stopped, have increased efficiency and ease of sewing.
Automated embroidery machines have replaced hand embroidery. An electronic copy of the desired logo or inscription is read by the machine and automatically stitched into the fabric. This type of work used to take hours of skilled labour, but now an operator simply places the fabric under the needle, instructs the machine to read the electronic file, and presses a button. Other production technology has focused on “small parts preparation”, work that is standard and simple. Other “small parts preparation” technology, such as automatic back pocket and label sewing, reduce the time and skill level needed for these steps.
For large-scale manufacturing, the lower labour costs in developing countries such as China and Mexico make a considerable impact on the cost of each garment piece, enough to easily make up for increased shipping costs and lead times.
Communication Technology
Large garment manufacturing firms in rely on sophisticated communication technology software systems. Communication technology is critical for larger multinational corporations in a variety ways. First, plants facility operate on an automatic ordering system. When the inventory levels of key garments for their customers (at least those who have agreed to use the automatic reorder
system) drop below a certain point, an order is automatically placed at the plant. Once the order comes in, it can be shipped within 48 hours (if the items are in their standard colours—otherwise the order will be shipped in over 48 hours). This ensures that stores have sufficient inventory, but stores do not have to overstock because thereorder time is so short.
The second type of communication technology involves relaying design information from design shops to manufacturing facilities in developing countries. Once a new garment has been designed, and the pattern developed and graded, the information must be sent overseas and the instructions for the garment construction must be communicated. Good communication is key, due to the cost of miscommunication and the significant barriers to communication, such as
language and geography. Communication technology to relay and discuss the information has been developed by CAD software companies, such as Gerber and Lectra, as part of their full suite. However, when one sight has a Gerber system, and the other has a Lectra system, there can be compatibility issues. Finally, another important feature of a software package such as Gerber or Lectra is specification communication. Companies that have their products manufactured in a number of different locations around the world must maintain standards and quality. Using industry-particular software, companies can communicate fabrication specifications to all of their customers to ensure their product needs are understood and met.
This article Sortir from A report for the Manitoba Research Allianceon Community Economic Development in the New Economy 2005
- On Mar 11, 2009
- Posted by noorfitrihana.
- There are 3 Comments
- and it is filed under: Teknologi GArmen dan Fashion
The Sewing Dictionary
A dictionary of sewing terms to help you along your sewing journey.
If you have any additions, changes, corrections, or suggestions, please feel free to let us know.
A B C D E F G H I J K L M N O P Q R S T U V W X, Y, Z
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Applique |
Sewing a piece of fabric atop another after folding under a small bit of the fabric to create a clean edge. When done by machine, many use a satin stitch (tight zig zag). By hand, blind stitching is often used. |
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Backstitch |
Used at the beginning and end of a machine sewn seam to anchor the seam in place; it involves a couple of extra stitches back and forth. |
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Ballpoint needle |
Ballpoint needles are designed to penetrate knit fabrics without nicking or damaging the fabric. |
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Bar tack |
A group of closely sewn stitchs (back and forth from side to side a la zig zag) that is used to tack a belt loop or similar item in place. This is not a basting stitch and should be repeated several times on the machine to make a very short run of satin stitching. |
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Baste/basting |
Temporary stitching used to hold a sewing project in place and is removed when the permanent sewing is done. |
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Batting |
Fiberfill, cotton, wool, or other material that is flattened and usually on a roll and purchased in precut lengths or by the yard. Uses of batting range from filling for placemats or vests to quilts. |
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Bias |
Runs diagonally to the straight grain of the fabric. This is the stretchiest part on the fabric. |
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Bias tape |
Strips of fabric cut on the bias, often turned under and pressed, and used for bindings, facings, or other application where there is a need for stretch or accomodation to curves. |
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Binding (blanket, quilt, seam etc.) |
Encasing the raw edges of a blanket or quilt with another piece of fabric. Binding also refers to the fabric that is folded and used for the encasing of the raw edges. |
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Blade |
The round, razor sharp portion of a rotary cutter. Also, the cutter used on a serger. |
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Blanket stitch |
Used to neaten the edge of a buttonhole, blanket, vest edge, or other seamline. A blanket stitch can be done by hand or machine. |
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Blind hem stitch |
Sewing stitch that is not meant to be seen on the right side of the fabric, usually accomplished by picking up one thread of the fabric at a time rather than going through the full fabric or several threads before completing a hand stitch or machine stitch. Many sewing machines come with a blind hem attachment and the manual is the best guide for how to use it and produce virtually invisible hems. |
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Bobbin |
The piece of your sewing machine that holds the bottom thread (the bobbin thread) and is placed in the bobbin case. It generally is under the area the needle penetrates and it loops with the needle thread to form a locked stitch. |
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Bodkin |
A tool used to insert elastic, cording, etc. through a casing. |
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Blanket stitch |
Used to neaten the edge of a buttonhole, blanket, vest edge, or other seamline. A blanket stitch can be done by hand or machine. |
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Bolt |
A large roll of fabric which can be on a tubular roll or a rectangular form. Fabric is usually folded right sides together lengthwise on a bolt. |
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Buckram |
Strong, heavy woven fabric used for stiffening baseball cap brims and some drapery applications. |
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Butting |
Bringing two edges together so they touch but do not overlap. |
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Buttonhole |
A bound slit in the fabric to allow the passage of a button for closure. Buttonholes are mostly made by machine these days, but many people do still prefer to make them by hand, using a special buttonhole stitch. |
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Casing |
Fabric envelope of sorts for encasing elastic, a drawstring, or similar material, usually along a waistline, cuff, hem. Elastic waist slacks have a casing into which the elastic is woven. Sweat pants have a turned up casing into through which elastic is encased (if there are not ribbed cuffs). |
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Chalk |
Used to mark fabric pleats, darts, diamonds, buttonholes, and other cutting or constructing lines and designs. |
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Clean finish (or finish) |
Finishing a seam with zig-zag stitching, turning under and pressing, pinking shears, etc. Gives the seam a “clean” finish. |
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Clip (curve) |
Methods vary from person to person, but to clip a curve keep in mind that an outside curve (shaped like an upside down U) needs to be clipped to within a breath of the seam line. An inside curve (shaped like a right side up U) can be either clipped or you can cut very small notches (V shape) out of the curve itself in order to have it lay flat and not make bunches when the project or garment is done. If you use a serger to finish your seams, clipping is not an issue. |
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Cording |
A twisted or woven “rope” or “string” that is used primarily in piping and to act as a drawstring in a jacket hood, waistband, or as stabilizer for frog closures. Cording is covered with bias strips of fabric when used for most decorative applications (such as edging a pillow). Other decorative effects can be achieved by zig-zagging over cording on a fabric for a raised design. |
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Covered button |
A button covered with coordinating or same fabric as the garment for which it is being made. Kits are available for this effect or creative and careful application of fabric, fabric glue and shank buttons can be used. |
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Cutting line |
On a pattern, the outermost dark line is the line upon which you cut. Traditions vary; some people cut through the center of this line, others cut just to the outside of this line. |
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Dart |
A V shaped, tapered adjustment to a pattern to allow for more fullness in the bust area or less fullness in other areas (waist) |
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Duct Tape Double (DTD) |
A body form made out of primarily duct tape and other materials that conforms exactly to one’s body because the tape is wound around the body and then removed as a whole. |
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Ease |
A way of sewing a length of fabric into a bit of a smaller space without resulting in gathers or puckers. |
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Edgestitch |
A stitch done a scant 1/8″ from the folded or seamed edge. |
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Embellish |
Adding special stitching, appliques, charms, or other decorations to your sewing project |
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Entredeux |
French word meaning “between two”. Often it’s a piece of lightweight fabric joined to another piece of lightweight fabric with a delicate bit of lace. Another method is to join two ribbons with a piece of lace. |
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Facing |
Fabric sewn on the raw edge of a garment piece that is turned under and serves as a finish for the edge as well. |
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Fat quarter |
Prior a quilting term, but often used for wearable art, vests, smaller garments, a fat quarter is 1/4 yard of fabric, about 18″ x 22″ as opposed to a regular 1/4 yard, which is 9″ x 45″. Fat quarters allow quick and colorful stash building. |
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Feed dog |
The “teeth” under the plate on the sewing machine that move fabric as it is sewn. |
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Finger press/ing |
Using your fingers and pressure to open a seam that may not be suitable for pressing. |
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Finish (an edge) |
Turn under 1/4″ and stitch, serge the edge, or other method of finishing the edge so it doesn’t ravel or cause a bulky problem. |
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Flat felled seam |
A seam created by sewing fabric wrong sides together, trimming one of the seam allowances close to the seam, then turning the other seam allowance under and stitching it over the prior trimmed seam allowance. This is often used for reinforcing seams on pajamas or to reduce bulk in a seam. |
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Fold line |
Many pattern pieces are placed on the fold of a piece of fabric. This is the actual fold of the fabric off the bolt or a fold of your own creation; the goal is to have a pattern piece that is cut out without a center seam. |
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Fusible (webbing, interfacing, etc.) |
Has the characteristic of being able to be ironed on, usually permanently, with or without reinforcement by stitching, due to a heat-activated “glue” on one side. |
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Gather |
Gathering allows for making a long piece of fabric to fit with a shorter piece of fabric and also is a method of easing a seam to allow insertion of sleeves and other rounded pattern pieces. When making an apron, there is a waistband that is the size of the person’s waist, plus some extra for tying the apron around the body. The apron itself usually is gathered, fluffy, almost pleated and has more fabric that flows from the waistband. The apron seam was gathered and then sewn to the waistline. To gather the seam, two parallel lines are sewn on the right side of the fabric, a scant 1/4″ apart. Long tails of thread are left for gathering. The bobbin threads (on the wrong side of the fabric) are held on either end of the seam and gently tugged, gathering the fabric evenly on the threads. Do not scrimp and only sew one thread of long length stitches; you will need both. |
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Grading (seams) |
Trimming raw edges in graduate widths to reduce bulk. The narrowest seam edge should be closest to the body, as a general rule. |
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Grain |
Direction of the fabric that runs parallel to the selvage (a stretchier grain is found running perpendicular to the selvage). Commercial patterns have an arrow on them <—–> indicating direction of the grain to assit in laying out the pattern pieces correctly. |
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Gusset |
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Hem |
Fabric that it turned up on the lower edge of a garment or sleeve to provide a finished edge. Often extra fabric is left in the hem with children’s clothing to allow for growth (especially skirts and slacks). |
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Hong Kong finish |
Enclosing a seam with bias binding. |
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Hook & eye closure |
A type of closure that employs a small hook on one side and a loop made of fabric or metal on the other. The hook and eye is used at the upper back of many dresses and often on lingerie. |
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Inseam |
Seam inside the leg of pants that runs from the crotch to the hem. |
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Interfacing |
Fabric used between layers of fabric to provide stabilization and form. Usually used in collars, cuffs, plackets, some waistbands and pockets, and facings. |
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Iron |
An iron is a tool that is used to straighten or press fabric. The iron can be used with or without steam. It is a very important tool for the sewing room. |
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Ironing |
Ironing is done by moving the iron back and forth over fabric. Ironing is generally not utilized when sewing. See “press”. |
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Jean jumper |
A small piece of plastic made to ease sewing seams on denim by holding the presser foot up ever so slightly. Allows the presser foot to “jump” the seam as if it was level with the rest of the denim. Works well with all thick fabrics. |
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Lining |
Used to finish the inside of a garment, to hide the seam construction, to allow for ease of putting a garment on or taking it off, and to provide decorative effect. A lining is cut of the same pattern pieces as the garment and often is made of “slippery” fabrics. It provides a minimal amount of warmth and usually extends the life of a garment. Linings should be washable if the garment is washable and should be prewashed. |
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Machine embroidery |
Decorative stitching created by using a regular sewing machine (zig zag, satin stitch, etc.) or a sewing machine specifically designed for machine embroidery. Combo machines are avaiable as well. |
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Miter |
Mitering a corner makes a smooth, tidy finish to a 90-degree corner, neatly squaring the corners while creating a diagonal seam from the point of the corner to the inside edge. Mitering is used for quilts corners, craft projects, some vests and jackets, and sometimes on collars. |
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Muslin |
A generally inexpensive woven fabric used to make crafts, back quilts, or to make draft or trial garments. |
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Nap |
Nap is the “fuzzy” part of a fabric that is usually directional in nature. Corderoy and velvet are good examples of fabric which has a nap or a pile. If smoothed with the hand in one direction, nap is typically shiny in one direction and not shiny in the other. When cutting out a pattern, care should be taken to keep fabric pieces going in the same direction nap-wise unless one is intentionally mixing naps and piles to produce a different kind of look. See “pile”. |
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Needle |
Sewing machine needles come in a variety of sizes and types – ball point and sharps are the two major categories. Ball point is used for knits and regular sharp needles are used for nonstretch fabrics. There are also all purpose needles, but it is recommended that you use ball point or regular rather than all purpose. There are wing needles, wedge needles, needles of varying sizes and shapes, as well as twin needles for some fancier stitching. |
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Notch |
Usually, the notch is shown on a pattern with a dark diamond. They are commonly cut outward and should be matched on seams when joining for sewing. |
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Notion |
A term used for any item used for sewing other than the fabric and the machine. |
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Overlock |
An overcast stitch to prevent ravelling of fabric. There are sewing machines made to do overlock stitching. See “serger”. |
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Overcasting, overstiching |
Stitching done over a seam to prevent ravelling. This can be done by hand or machine. |
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Pattern weights |
Weights used on paper patterns instead of pinning a pattern to the fabric. |
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Pile |
See “nap”. |
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Pinking shears |
Shears with a V shape along the cutting edge used to cut fabric and have it remain essentially ravel-free. |
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Pins |
Pins are used for temporary basting of fabric. They are used to hold patterns in place while cutting and to hold fabrics together while stitching (it is not recommended to machine sew over pins as they have been known to break your sewing machine needle, jam the machine, or cause other problems). Often, large safety pins are used to baste quilt layers before the final quilting. Care should be taken to use a pin that will not leave a large hole and to not leave pins in fabric too long; they could cause stains where they touch the fabric. |
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Pintuck |
Narrow sewn rows of fabric that give a decorative raised look to a garment. Some bloused are made with pin tucking on the bodice for a more tailored look. |
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Piping |
A cord covered with fabric, often used for decorative edging on garments or projects. |
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Pivot |
To leave the needle in fabric, raise the presserfoot and turn the fabric at a 45 degree angle. Then lower the presserfoot and start sewing. Used to sew square seams. (Thanks to Beth!) |
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Placket |
A V-shaped opening at the end of a sleeve that is finished with a bias strip before the cuff is attached. |
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Pleat |
A fold in fabric that is either inverted or folded outward, is not sewn except on the top edge (as in a skirt or slacks waistband), and provides decorative or functional fullness. |
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Press |
Using an iron in a press/pick up/move/press/… pattern. Pressing is not moving back and forth on fabric with the iron. Pressing is done “as you go” while creating a garment. |
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Presser foot |
The part of the sewing machine that holds the fabric in place as it is being sewn and fed through by the feed dogs. Specialty feet such as zig zag, buttonhole, cording, blind hem, and others are often included with a sewing machine upon purchase and are best learned by consulting the sewing machine manual. |
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Prick stitch |
You use prick stitching on fabrics such as velvet where everything shows. Take a small backstitch sewn on the right side of the fabric and do the remaining backstitching on the wrong side. |
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Ravel/Ravelling |
Making or allowing the edge of a fabric to get a fringed look by having threads come loose either on their own via wearing and washing or by stitching a tight seam a distance from the raw edge and pulling threads. |
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Raw (edge) |
The edge of fabric that is not stitched or finished. |
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Right side |
The right side of the fabric is the design side. There are instances of fabric with no right or wrong side visible, and the determination and appropriate markings are then made by the person doing the pattern cutting and sewing. |
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Rotary cutter |
Early versions of the rotary cutter looked like pizza cutters. Today, the handles are often ergonomically designed and padded. The blade, though, remains a rounded razor, sometimes with pinked edging or other designs. These are great for cutting layers of fabric into straight strips. Many people are using them for curved lines and pattern cutting for garments as well. |
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Running stitch |
A simple stitch made by running the thread over and under the fabric. This stitch is often used for basting or as the basis (marking) for another more decorative stitch. |
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Satin stitch |
A very tight zig zag stitch that is available on most sewing machines. If it is not automatically available, the stitch length can be set to almost 0 to achieve a satin stitch with a plain zig zag machine. |
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Seam |
The result when two pieces of fabric are sewn together along a line. |
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Seam allowance |
The fabric between the edge of the fabric and the line of stitching, about 5/8″ for most patterns. (Craft patterns often allow 1/4″ seam allowance.) |
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Selvedge, selvege, selvage |
Often marked with information from the manufacturer (color code, identifying data, etc.), this is the edge of the fabric which generally does not fray due to manufacturer’s finish. In most cases, this edge should not be included when you cut your fabric, as it may cause puckering of your seam later. on. |
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Separating zipper |
A zipper that comes completely apart when unzipped. There is a special tab at the bottom of a separating zipper for bringing it together and starting the zip. |
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Serger |
A type of sewing machine that stitches the seam, encases the seam with thread, and cuts off excess fabric at the same time. These are used for construction of garments with knit fabrics mostly, or to finish seams of any fabric. |
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Shank button |
A button with space left between the button and fabric. A shank button is one made with a shank. Other buttons can be “shanked” by wrapping thread under the button to create a shank. |
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Sizing |
Fabric finish that provides crispness without stiffness; a light starch finish. |
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Snips |
Very small cutting tool resembling scissors used to snip threads. Usually used with hand sewing or portable projects. |
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Spool |
The holder of thread. There are wooden spools, plastic spools, cardboard tube spools, and cone spools, as well as others. |
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Stash |
Collection of fabric. |
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Stay stitch |
A line of stitching just inside the intended permanent stitching line (seam line) on curved edges that stabilizes and keeps the curve from distoring. The direction of the stay stitching is shown on the pattern. If not, it generally goes from shoulder to center on necklines. There are other indications for stay stitching, but this is one of the more common. |
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Stitch in the ditch |
Stitching in the ditch is used as a method of understitching and also as a form of simple machine quilting for craft projects. It is a method of stitching close to a seam allowance or in the seam itself in order to hold it down. |
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Stitch length |
In general, regular sewing is about 11-12 stitches per inch, basting/gathering/bunching/sleeve easing is about 6 stitches per inch (plus or minus 1 or 2 stitches for some applications). There are rare occasions when stitches need to exceed 12 per inch, but they are few. |
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Straight stitch |
Stitching made with single forward stitches. This is the regular stitch that most sewing machines make and may or may not require a special presser foot. |
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Tack |
A temporary stitch to hold pieces together, usually removed after final stitching. Tacking is also known as a term for starting off a seam with a few stitches back and forth for stabilizing. |
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Tailor’s tack |
A tailor’s tack is essentially two threads in a needle, drawn through fabric layer/s and then snipped, leaving tails of thread on top and on the bottom of the fabric as a marking for later use. They can be used to mark pattern pieces for darts, buttonholes, etc. Go straight through all layers of pattern and fabric before snipping any threads. Leave a long enough tail of thread that you can find it later. Use a contrasting thread that stands out so you can see it later. |
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Tension |
Tension is one of the least understood concepts of sewing machines. It refers to the pressure being placed on your needle and bobbin thread by your machine. There are two types of tension on your sewing machine – the thread and bobbin tensions. It is best to read your sewing machine manual for specifics. Rarely does one need to adjust bobbin tension. Your sewing machine manual will show you the appropriate settings and offer you examples of what the threads should look like on the right and wrong sides of your stitching. |
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Thread |
A complementary or like thread is chosen for garment or project construction on a machine. The bobbin should be wound of the same type of thread or the exact same thread whenever possible, to prevent knotting, bunching, etc. The first step for most sewing machine trouble shooting is to change the thread and needle. When hand sewing with one thread, cut the end of the thread that is nearest to the spool before tying a knot in the same end. This will prevent ravelling and knotting. |
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Top stitch |
A sometimes decorative, sometimes functional stitch that is usually 1/4″ from the edge of a seam. For instance, once a vest is turned or a facing to a jacket is turned and pressed, one may stitch 1/4″ from the edge on the top of the garment to provide a bit of stabilization. This can be done in same or contrasting thread, depending on the decorative effect one wishes to achieve. |
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Tracing paper |
A type of paper made especially to be used with a tracing wheel. It has an ink-type substance on one side for marking fabric with the wheel. |
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Tracing wheel |
A tracing wheel is used with tracing paper. The paper is placed upon the fabric with the “ink” side down, the pattern markings that need to be transferred placed upon the paper, and then the markings are traced with the wheel. The wheel itself looks a bit like a pizza cutter with spikes. Care needs to be taken not to press too hard and cut the pattern, tracing paper, or the fabric. Tracing ink from the tracing paper does not always wash out and this needs to be taken into consideration as well. |
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Trim |
Trim is any decorative item, ribbon, lace that is put on a garment or craft item that is being sewn. Trim is also used to define the act of trimming excess seam allowances or fabric with scissors. |
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Tuck |
See pin tuck. A method of sewing fabric together resulting in a raised seam, often seen in heirloom sewing, the bodice of a woman’s blouse or a man’s formal shirt. |
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Underlining |
Lining used to add body to a garment. |
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Understitching |
Keeps a facing or lining from rolling onto the right side of a garment. After pressing the seam allowance and facing away from the garment, stitch through both a scant 1/8″ from the seam. Some people grade the seam allowance and facing/lining prior to stitching to eliminate bulk. |
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Universal needle |
A slightly rounded tip to use for woven or knit fabrics. |
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View |
Most patterns show different variations on the pattern package. Each variation is called a “view”. |
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Warp |
Threads running the length of a woven fabric, sometimes known as the lengthwise grain (little to no stretch) (see weft and grain) |
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Wearable art |
Decorative, usually quilted, clothing made to be unique, beautiful, and functional. |
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Weft |
Threads running at right angles to the length of a woven fabric, sometimes known as the cross grain (very little to some stretch) (see warp and grain) |
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Welt |
A method of covering the raw edges of a pocket or other opening, can be single or double welt. |
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Whipstitch |
A simple running stitch used to hold two pieces of fabric together. Good for closing seams of leather, crochet/knit item, or the opening of a pillor that has been stuffed. |
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Wing needle |
Needle with wide, wing shaped, flared sides used to create holes in tightly woven fabrics, such as creating entredeux. Available as single or doubles. |
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Wrong side |
The wrong side of the fabric is the side upon which there is no design. There are instances of fabric with no wrong side visible, and the determination and appropriate markings are then made by the person doing the pattern cutting and sewing. |
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Zig zag |
A stitch that goes one way (zig) and then the other (zag) and provides a nice finish to a seam to prevent raveling, can be a decorative addition to any garment, and can allow for give with knits. A very short to nonexistent stitch length with zig zag stitching is the same as a satin stitch. |
Updated 11/21/2004
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property ownership and all other clauses.
- On Dec 14, 2008
- Posted by noorfitrihana.
- There are 2 Comments
- and it is filed under: Teknologi GArmen dan Fashion
Skill requirements for textile and fashion designers
by Dr. H. R. Sheikh, Professor Emeritus, Textile Institute of Pakistan
The lifestyle of men and women, especially the young generation, has changed all over the world. Consequently, the design requirements of textile products have also changed. Apparel manufacturers demand fabrics with special characteristics so that comfortable, garments with adequate holding power and shape retention properties can be produced for the modern consumers. Such fabrics can be produced by selecting the right type of raw-materials, constructional parameters and manufacturing techniques. By using the appropriate wet-processing and finishing processes fabrics with wearing performance of hand, drape, crease and wrinkle recovery can be manufactured. However, artistic fabrics with attractive visual appeal, exhibiting the qualities of color, print and design cannot be created without the input of textile and fashion designers, possessing skill competency attributes as listed below.
1. Skill Competency of Designer
(i) Strong artistic and aesthetic sense.
(ii) Deep understanding of colour.
(iii) Ability to identify not only market needs but also to create market needs.
(iv) Imagination to produce and express ideas into a tangible, useable product with due consideration to economic constraints.
(v) Thorough understanding of the processes involved in the manufacture of textile products and capability to introduce innovations within practical performance limits of the machinery.
(vi) Awareness of the new ideas launched in the market and anticipation of future trends.
(vii) Knowledge of the changes in the life of the consumers and the impact of these changes on the demand for fashion apparel.
(viii) Preservation and promotion of local crafts and traditions by developing products which represent a feasible combination of tradition and modernity to be readily acceptable to the consumers.
(ix) Designing and developing which involve the use of environmentally friendly processes and are free from substances harmful to the consumers, i.e., the products are green-labelled with reference to Oko-Tex Standard 100.
2. Education and Training in Design Technology
In order to acquire the knowledge of design technology and develop adequate capabability as well as skill competence, the prospective designers need to pursue preferably a four year course leading to a degree at an institute or a university recognised by the Higher Education Commission (HEC) of the Government of Pakistan (GoP). In general, the contents of such a course are structured as follows:
(i) First year
Knowledge of the principles and concepts of the design of textile products is imparted to the students. They are motivated to think, learn and develop an understanding of the elements and principles of design and drawing. The students are also expected to develop comparing and contrasting ability and develop an artistic and aesthetic talent.
(ii) Second year
The students should be encouraged to think and produce original ideas for creating novel designs of products. Exposure of the students to our traditional crafts and textiles will inspire them to develop original ideas and thoughts. Simultaneously, knowledge of the processes involved in the manufacture of textile products and handicrafts should be imparted to the students. In order to facilitate understanding of the technical, mechanical and technological details of these processes by the students.,
Internships should be arranged under the supervision of the faculty concerned. Internships should be compulsory for each student and the performance should be evaluated on individual basis at the end of the internship period.
(iii) Third year
The students should be given information as well exposure to the needs of the mass market, commercial production and international trends. Teaching should also cover essential information about marketing and management skills. This will facilitate the students to become independent entrepreneurs and set up their own practices after graduation.
Internships should also be arranged for the students at the end of third year.
(iv) Final year
The students should develop thorough understanding and coherent knowledge of the key aspects of design technology. They should be fully conversant with the application of strategic planning for undertaking of projects requiring use of aesthetic sensibilities as well as management expertise. They should also be allowed to develop their own projects for working and exploring a medium of their own choice.
3. Expectation from Designers
After completing the course on Design Technology, the graduates will be eligible for employment in departments of textile mills and textile institutes, universities and boutiques or they can start independent private practice. In each case they will fulfill professional expectations in respect of their performances some of which are:
(i) to produce designs for the local and global markets
(ii) to meet the design orders from international clients and
(iii) to preserve and promote traditional crafts and indigenous textiles through innovation and facilitation.
- On Dec 14, 2008
- Posted by noorfitrihana.
- There are 3 Comments
- and it is filed under: Teknologi GArmen dan Fashion
DEFINISI Dan STRUKTUR SMART TEXTILE by noor fitrihana
Pembentukan material smart textile dilakukan dari atau saat proses pembuatan serat (polimerisasi), pembuatan benang (pemintalan), pembuatan kain (pertenunan) dan pada proses penyempurnaan (finishing) hingga pada saat proses penjahitan. Pada saat proses tersebut diberikan senyawa-senyawa kimia khusus dan berbagai peralatan elektronik (serat optik, sensor, aktuator, komunikasi, prosesor) sehingga bahan tekstil memiliki sifat-sifat khusus dan merespon rangsang dari lingkungan. Deguillemont (2003) memberikan definisi smart textile sebagai bahan tekstil yang mampu memberikan respon sesuai permintaan terhadap berbagai kondisi lingkungan seperti panas, kimia, biologi, elektromagnetik, listrik statis dan lainnya. Sedangkan menurut Singh (2004) smart textile adalah tekstil yang mampu merasakan dan merespon terhadap kondisi atau rangsangan lingkungan baik mekanik, kimia, listrik dan medan magnet. Pada umumnya struktur smart textile terdiri dari 2 komponen utama yaitu:
1. Bahan Tekstil Dengan Sifat Khusus ( High Permorfance dan High Function)
2. Micro Electronic System (Fiber optic, conductive fiber, Sensor, aktuator dan kontrol)
Sumber: Meoli dan Plumlee (2002), Menezes (2003), Deguillemont (2003), Sing (2004), Widodo (2004).
Berikut beberapa produk smart textile yang telah dikembangkan di berbagai Negara:
- Intelligent knee-sleeve: Intelligent Polymer Research Institute dan Biomedical Science di Universitas Wollongong bekerjasama dengan CSIRO Textiles and Fibre Technology (masing-masing adalah lembaga pendidikan tinggi dan lembaga penelitian terkemuka di Australia) telah mengembangkan suatu pembungkus lutut yang biasa dikenakan para atlet dengan fungsi dan kemampuan khusus sebagai alat berlatih untuk melakukan gerakan-gerakan yang aman, efisien dan efektif. Pembungkus tersebut dilapisi dengan bahan polimer konduktif dan dilengkapi serangkaian sensor yang dapat mendeteksi perubahan bentuknya. Pembungkus akan mengeluarkan bunyi bila tekukan lutut ada pada posisi terbaik. (Widodo, 2004)
- SOFTswitch adalah sebuah perusahaan di Inggris yang mengkhususkan kegiatannya pada pengembangan kain dengan teknologi peka sentuhan dan interaktif. Dengan memanfaatkan nanoteknologi suatu bahan tekstil dimungkinkan untuk berfungsi sebagai antarmuka pengendali berbagai macam perangkat elektronik menggantikan tombol-tombol atau saklar yang biasa kita kenal, keypads, dan keyboards. Kemungkinan aplikasinya bisa berupa sebuah jaket yang berhubungan dengan telepon seluler, remote control televisi yang “dijahitkan” pada lengan kursi, atau bisa juga saklar lampu penerangan rumah yang ditanamkan pada kain tirai atau karpet. (Dina Meoli dan Tracy Mae-Plumlee (2002), Deguillemont (2003), Sing (2004), Widodo (2004)).
- Interactive Jacket: Sebuah produk jaket yang diintegrasikan dengan peralatan komunikasi dan GPS (Global positioning System).Dengan menggunakan jaket ini maka pemakai dapat mendengarkan musik MP3, melakukan komunikasi, dan diketahui lokasi keberadaannya.
- Pakaian untuk memonitor kesehatan tubuhPakaian ini dapat digunakan untuk mengukur dan memonitor detak jantung, pernafasan, aliran darah, suhu badan selama 24 jam penuh selama di pakai.
- On Aug 11, 2008
- Posted by noorfitrihana.
- There are 3 Comments
- and it is filed under: Teknologi GArmen dan Fashion
APLIKASI SMART TEXTILE by noor fitrihana
Pada umumnya bahan tekstil digunakan sebagai bahan untuk pembuatan pakaian. Fungsi dasar pakaian adalah untuk penampilan (estetika), memenuhi sosiokultural (etika) dan perlindungan terhadap cuaca (panas, dingin dan angin). Dengan teknologi smart textile menjadikan fungsi pakaian tidak lagi hanya sebatas estetika, etika dan perlindungan dari terpaan panas, dingin dan angin namun lebih dari itu pakaian dengan teknologi smart textile mampu memberikan nilai tambah fungsi untuk berbagai bidang penggunaan (High Permformance and High Function). Dari berbagai produk smart textile yang telah beredar secara umum aplikasi smart tekstil dapat dikategorikan dalam 3 bidang
- Perlindungan (Protective/safety wear)
Pada umumnya digunakan untuk perlindungan keselamatan manusia di berbagai bidang kegiatan seperti pakaian militer (rompi anti peluru), Seragam permadam kebakaran, pakaian pembalap, pakaian astrounot, pakaian penjinak bom dan lainnya
- Kesehatan
Pada umumnya digunakan di bidang medis pakaian pengontrol kerja jantung, dan tekanan darah, pakaian antibakteri dna lainnya
2. Fungsional (tujuan khusus)
Digunakan untuk fungsi pemakaian khusus misalnya pakaian yang dilengkapai dengan sistem elektronik untuk hiburan (entertainment cloth), pakaian untuk mengontrol/menstabilkan suhu tubuh dari pengaruh cuaca, untuk memperbesar/memperindah bentuk tubuh, menghilanglan bau badan dan lainnya.
Pameran berbagai produk smart textile juga telah mulai dilakukan di berbagai negara seperti Amerika, Jerman, Turki dan pada tahun 2007 ini di Taiwan. Pada tabel 2 berikut dapat dilihat berbagai produk smart textile lainnya yang dipamerkan di Smart Textile Hightex 2005 di Istambul Turki.
Tabel Produk Smart textile
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Berbagai produk Smart Textile |
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| Anticellulite socksAnti-bacterial t-shirts
Anti-perspirant cloths and sock Insect repellant pyjamas Climate adaptable pullowers Air conditioned bathing suits, jackets Musical clothes Dry, sweat absorbent, heater and cooler sports clothes Nanotechnological products, fabrics earable computers Vibration clothes for relaxing Illuminated clothes Soot, metal, chemical liquid-gas protection clothes Remote controlled pillows (electrotextiles) Body heat measuring medical pads |
Biorhythm compatible clothesNon-sweating under wear
High temperature resistant outwears Warming clothes for cold weather Heat and light permable curtains Pain killer hats Air-pillow clothes against falling down Anti-dust toys Clothes that breath under normal conditions and become non-permable in cold weather; Direction describing assistant clothes Perfumed clothes |
Sumber:www. Hightex.com
Melihat perkekembangan yang terjadi berbagai aplikasi smart textile untuk pakaian kesehatan (Inteligent biomedical cloth/ Health monitoring cloth), Pakaian elektronik (entertainment/electronic cloth), pakaian militer, pakaian keselamatan (safety cloth) dan wearable computer akan terus berkembang untuk memenuhi fungsi-fungsi khusus lainnya. Berdasar laporan Venture Development Corporation(VDC, 2002) sebuah lembaga yang bergerak di bidang teknologi, penelitian dan strategi pasar menyatakan bahwa smart Fabric/Interactive textile akan memasuki pasar untuk ditujukan pada kepentingan bidang kesehatan, keamanan publik, militer, olahraga dan lainnya. VDC juga meramalkan pertumbuhan pasar smart textile akan bergerak cepat karena telah banyak perusahaan yang mengembangkan aplikasi smart textile seperti, Sensatex, DuPont, ADA, Foster-Miller, Santa Fe Science and Technology, SOFTswitch, dan International Fashion Machines.
- On Aug 11, 2008
- Posted by noorfitrihana.
- There are 0 Comments
- and it is filed under: Teknologi GArmen dan Fashion
| Organic & Eco Fashion | ||||
Sumber : Blink 3rd Edition (http://www.kingfoto.com/_artikel.php?id=320293&category=1) |
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- On Jul 23, 2008
- Posted by noorfitrihana.
- There are 1 Comment
- and it is filed under: Teknologi GArmen dan Fashion
Technology Quick Dry Fabric PT Frans Putratex
sumber: www.indotextile.com
Arus globalisasi di dunia industri menyebabkan persaingan semakin ketat. Pelaku industri harus terus melakukan inovasi guna mempertahankan eksistensinya. Sadar akan hal itu, PT Frans Putratex sebagai salah satu pemain di industri tekstil selalu melakukan terobosan-terobosan baru dalam mengembangkan produk-produknya. Menjabarkan tuntutan pasar dengan menghasilkan produk-produk yang berkualitas dan berdaya saing tinggi.
PT Frans Putratex menciptakan technology quick dry fabric sebagai produk terbarunya. Ide awalnya lahir dari iklim indonesia yang tropis. Ketika kita melakukan aktifitas dengan hawa yang panas, maka cenderung mengeluarkan keringat, sehingga pakaian menjadi tidak nyaman ketika dikenakan. Produk ini terbuat dari serat poliester yang mempunyai sifat dasar tidak menyerap air.
Tetapi dengan technology quick dry ini, kain akan mudah menyerap air.Technology quick dry fabric merupakan pengembangan dari produk sebelumnya yaitu soil release fabric, kain yang mempunyai daya tahan terhadap kotoran dan minyak. Jika ada kotoran dan minyak yang menempel pada permukaan kain, maka akan mudah dihilangkan dalam proses pencucian. Tehnology quick dry fabric ini mempunyai keunggulan lebih menyerap air dan mempunyai ketahanan terhadap kotoran dan minyak lebih baik jika dibandingkan soil release fabric.
Produk ini menciptakan moisture managament di dalam kain. Jika ada keringat yang terserap oleh pakaian, maka keringat akan mudah diserap oleh kain, lalu keringat tersebut disebarkan di sekitar daerah tetesan. Setelah itu, keringat akan diuapkan dengan cepat sehingga kain mudah kering. Begitu juga, ketika ada air yang berasal dari luar menetes pada pakaian. Dengan sistem tersebut kain akan menyerap air secara dua arah. Artinya, ketika ada air yang berasal dari tubuh (red : keringat) maupun yang berasal dari luar (red : hujan) maka air tersebut akan diserap oleh kain, kemudian diuapkan dengan cepat ke udara.
Selain menyerap air, technology quick dry fabric juga menyerap suhu panas tubuh kemudian membebaskannya ke udara, sehingga produk ini terasa dingin dan nyaman ketika dikenakan. Berdasarkan tes labolatorium yang dilakukan. Technology quick dry fabric mampu menyerap air dalam waktu 1,77 detik, sedangkan kemampuan kain untuk menguapkan air setelah 5 menit rata-rata sebesar 10 % dan untuk tes penguapan waktu terlama yaitu setelah 30 menit rata-rata sebesar 30 %.
Technology quick dry fabric dipasarkan dengan nama dagang Famitex. Produk ini dikenakan untuk segmen pasar cooperate wear. PT Frans Putratex mencoba mengubah image cooperate wear yang terkesan formal menjadi pakaian cooperate wear yang nyaman dipakai dan stylish dengan tampilan kain yang tak hanya polos, ada corak, kotak-kotak maupun salur. Produk ini rencanaya di pasarkan di dalam dan luar negri dengan segmen pasar perkantoran dan sekolahan yang mewajibkan untuk mengenakan cooperate wear.
- On Jul 16, 2008
- Posted by noorfitrihana.
- There are 0 Comments
- and it is filed under: Teknologi GArmen dan Fashion
Coba kita amati setiap kali kita mengenakan pakaian, apa saja yang kita pertimbangkan sehingga kita memilih pakaian tersebut?. Demikian juga coba kita amati orang lain yang mengenakan pakaian tertentu apa yang bisa kita perkirakan dari melihat pakaiannya?. Seiring perkembangan mode pakaian bukan lagi sebatas penutup aurat namun pakaian sudah merupakan bagian dari gaya hidup dan pencitraan sesorang. Pakaian mampu menunjukkan hendak kemana tujuan sesorang. Mereka yang akan pergi beribadah (muslim) pada umumnya mengenakan sarung, baju koko membawa sajadah dan perlengkapan ibadah lainnya. Orang yang hendah bertakziah/sedang berkabung biasanya mengenakan pakaian yang berwarna hitam atau ungu. Jika seseorang mengenakan kebaya, batik, jas umumnya akan menghadiri sebuah acara yang bersifat resmi/seremonial.
(more…)
- On Jun 5, 2008
- Posted by noorfitrihana.
- There are 0 Comments
- and it is filed under: Teknologi GArmen dan Fashion
Perkembangan teknologi pembuatan pakaian jadi sudah demikian pesatnya. Di Amerika telah ada mesin pengukur tubuh dengan sistem digital yang dikembangkan oleh perusahaan TC2, mesin ini mampu mengambil lebih dari 200 titik tubuh untuk membuat pola pakaian yang pas di badan dalam waktu cepat. Mesin ini bekerja dengan empat kamera yang mengambil data digital. Informasi dari kamera ini diproses dalam peranti lunak (software) yang mengeluarkan 200 ukuran tubuh secara akurat dalam waktu kurang dari 1 menit. Ukuran tersebut langsung dibuatkan pola di layar komputer sehingga pembeli dapat langsung melihat seperti apa pakaian itu akan menempel di tubuhnya (Kompas,16 Mei 2004).
(more…)
- On Jun 5, 2008
- Posted by noorfitrihana.
- There are 0 Comments
- and it is filed under: Teknologi GArmen dan Fashion, Uncategorized
Serat High Function Dan High Performance Sebagai Bahan Busana Terciptanya produk busana yang indah dan nyaman dipakai, tidak terlepas dari perkembangan teknologi serat tekstil. Pada awalnya untuk membuat busana masih digunakan serat-serat alam seperti kapas, sutera, wool, rami. Selanjutnya, setelah ditemukannya serat sintetis seperti polyester, rayon, nylon, spandex dengan berbagai sifat-sifat unggulnya mendorong manusia untuk membuat busana dengan berbagai model menggunakan perpaduan bahan dari serat alam dan sintetis sehingga menghasilkan produk busana yang memiliki sifat-sifat khusus. (more…)
- On Jun 5, 2008
- Posted by noorfitrihana.
- There are 2 Comments
- and it is filed under: Teknologi GArmen dan Fashion, Teknologi Tekstil
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